Acid and alkaline refer to the chemicals that make up a hair permanent.
A permanent wave, or perm, is a chemical process that gives waves, curls, or even straightens hair. The chemicals used in a perm are typically either acid or alkaline, based on the pH balance of the primary ingredient.
Alkaline Perms
Alkaline perms are the most commonly used.
Alkaline perms use a lotion made of ammonium thioglycolate, a strong alkaline chemical with a pH balance between 8.2 and 9.6. The ammonia in the lotion gives this type of perm the quintessential perm odor. Alkaline perms are also called cold perms as no heat is needed to activate the chemical once it is applied to hair. Curls are activated in about 20 minutes.
Acid Perms
Acid perms were introduced in the 1970s.
Acid perms are made of glyceryl monothyioglycylate, which has a pH of 4.5 to 6.5. This type of perm is generally considered to be gentler than alkaline. Acid perms require a heat source as well as additional time to make the hair curls set.
Acid vs. Alkaline Perms
Alkaline and acid perms produce different types of curls.
Whether you choose an alkaline or acid perm depends upon the type of hair and desired style of curl you want. Alkaline perms are preferred for coarse, thick hair types to give a firm, strong curl, but alkaline perms are more damaging on hair. Acid perms produce a looser curl and are milder on hair. The milder acid perms, however, also tend to relax faster than alkaline.
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