What Is The Difference Between A Hydroxy Acid & Alpha

Hydroxy acids are used to exfoliate skin

As more and more people want to keep skin looking younger, they investigate different ingredients. One family of ingredients---hydroxy acids---can cause confusion.

What is a hydroxy acid?

Sugarcane extract is an alpha hydroxy acid

A hydroxy acid is a family of ingredients commonly used in topical skin care and cosmetics. There are two types: alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid.

Both are used for exfoliating, or removing, cells from the upper layer of the skin. They are also used for their antiseptic properties, which is why they also appear in hair care and body care products.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Alpha hydroxy acids are powerful exfoliants often used in chemical peels. The benefits are often associated with minimizing, reducing or eliminating signs of skin aging such as undesirable skin tone (age spots) and skin texture (fine lines and wrinkles). AHAs are also used in acne products. AHAs are water soluble, meaning they dissolve in water.

Because of their potentially severe action, AHAs are used at different levels in consumer, professional and prescription strengths. Consumer products usually have levels of 10 percent or less. Professional products---those used by estheticians and other beauty professionals---have AHA levels between 20 percent to 30 percent. Prescription products---those only available through a doctor---have AHA levels between 50 percent and 70 percent.

Common AHA ingredients are glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, fruit acids and sugar cane extract.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

Willow extract is a beta hydroxy acid

Some claim that BHAs offer all the benefit of AHAs---improved skin texture and tone---without the irritation AHAs are known for.

BHAs are most often used to fight acne or breakouts because they are lipid soluble. This means they dissolve in fat, which makes them better able to penetrate skin pores where sebum and dead skin cells are stored.

Common BHA ingredients are salicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, tropic acid and willow extract.

Ingredient labeling

Products with AHAs and BHAs must list it on the package

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration require any product containing AHAs or BHAs to list the ingredient and how active it is on a percentage basis.

Consult a professional

Talk with a dermatologist or esthetician before starting to use any product with AHAs or BHAs.

Warning

AHAs can 'burn.' Do a patch test before using any product with AHAs.

AHAs are known to increase sun sensitivity. Consumers have more to worry about than sunburn. The use of AHAs can also increase risk for skin cancer. Anyone using a product with AHA is strongly encouraged to use a sunscreen of at least 30 spf, applied every couple of hours.

Stop using the product immediately if any burning, itching, redness, blisters, welts or other undesirable symptom appears.

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