Monday, February 1, 2010

Different Perm Rolls

Different perm rods impart different curl types.


Perms had their heyday in the 1980s, when tight poodle curls defined the era and home-perm kits graced drugstore shelves. But the permanent wave has undergone a metamorphosis since then, with new perm rods and rolling techniques that create looser, softer curls. Whether you want ringlets or a body wave, your hairdresser can help you get them with the right perm roll.


Perm Rods


The rollers used to create a perm are called perm rods. Whether you get loose or tight curls depends on the size of rod you use and the number of times your stylist wraps your hair around the rod. Perm rods are color-coded, with red being the smallest and purple being the largest. Stylists use red rods for tight curls in short hair. Purple rods are generally used for body waves, or loose curls in long hair. The standard, all-purpose perm rod is gray, which creates tight curls in hair between 3 to 5 inches in length.


Rolling Technique


In a traditional perm roll, known as a croquignole wrap, the stylist wraps the client's hair around a standard rod in layers, rolling from the tips to the roots. Spiral perms, which create ringlets in long hair, require a different rolling technique. The stylist wraps the hair around a corkscrew- or boomerang-shaped rod, never allowing the hair to overlap. While it is possible to do a spiral perm with a standard rod, it's not ideal, as standard rods aren't long enough.


Other Perm Rolls


If your goal in perming your hair is to create volume rather than defined curls; body waves and root perms, which use large rods and fewer wraps, are your best options. For an uneven curl pattern that looks more natural, try a spot perm, in which the stylist rolls only a few sections of hair around the rods. Stacked perms and multi-textured perms use multiple rod sizes to create a layered look.


Piggyback Perm Roll


Croquignole wraps use only one perm rod per curl, and the rollers go from the crown to the nape in rows that look like ladders. When doing a spiral perm with traditional rods or perming very long hair, the stylist might use a technique called the piggyback roll, which requires two rods. The first wrap goes in a corkscrew pattern from the root to the middle of the hair length; the second goes from the middle to the ends in using croquignole technique. The goal in piggybacking perm rods is to create a consistent curl pattern down the length of the hair.







Tags: hair around, long hair, stylist wraps, tight curls, body waves, curl pattern

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