Permanent Waves & Hair Testing

Hair testing tells stylists if it is safe to perm.

Hair testing and analysis gives stylists the information they need to accurately predict how a permanent wave will turn out. The information also helps stylists choose the type of perm and rods to use to achieve the desired results. Without testing, stylists can only guess at how the perm will turn out or if it will turn out at all. For this reason, hair testing should be performed before each and every permanent wave service.

Density and Diameter

Density refers to the number of hairs growing in a 1-inch square section of scalp. Density ranges from thin to thick. Diameter refers to the circumference size of each individual hair. Diameter ranges from fine to coarse. Both density and diameter are extremely important factors when perming. As density increases, the section size for each rod decreases. Diameter effects rod size and perm solution. Finer hair requires larger rods and a stronger perm solution as it is easy to break but difficult to perm.

Porosity

Porosity is the ability of hair to absorb liquid. Hair should not absorb a huge amount of liquid. Instead, liquid should mostly remain on the outside of the cuticle layer until it is dried. Good porosity is identified by hair that dries quickly. Overly porous hair is difficult to dry, heavy feeling, dry and frizzy. Porosity affects the outcome of the perm since it is directly linked to hair damage. Perming overly porous hair may result in more damage, breakage, dryness and frizziness.

Elasticity

Good elasticity ensures hair against breakage. During the perming process, hair expands and shrinks. If the hair is unable to stretch to accommodate the expansion, breakage occurs. To check elasticity, stylists wet the hair and hold an individual strand between the two first fingers of each hand. They leave about 3 to 4 inches between holding points and gently pull on the hair and release. Your stylist should be able to feel the stretch and see the hair retract when the tension is released. If the hair breaks, it is not safe to perm.

History

A complete history is also taken before each perm service. Always tell your stylist the complete history of everything you have done to your hair over the past year. Even if you cover highlights with a darker color, the highlights and the damages associated with them are still there. Failure to disclose a complete history could be disastrous.

Identifying problems

Stylists also check the hair for potential problems that may interfere with the hair's ability to take a perm. Product and medication build up, metallic dyes and certain health problems can be discerned with a close inspection of the hair.

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