Some Renaissance coats fit snugly, like a suit jacket might fit.
The Renaissance fashion trend for male capes and coats generally portrayed a militaristic edge carried over from the Dark Ages. Capes, lacking in practicality, usually appeared among the upper classes for travel or formal occasions. Coats, being more practical, appeared often; men of every class wore them for both everyday and dress occasions.
Fabric
The material used for capes and coats varied depending on the intended use of the garment. For dress occasions, men might choose a cape made of silk brocade and velvet or a coat made of satin and velvet. Dress capes made of taffeta also appeared in Renaissance Spain, and fine leather was not uncommon throughout Europe either. For a practical coat worn for informal use, though, men might opt for something made of flax or wool, as these fabrics proved warm, durable and inexpensive.
Color
During the Renaissance, some colors cost more and, therefore, appeared less frequently among the lower classes than among the higher classes. Generally, only gentlemen would have coats or capes made with purple or crimson dye, and these garments generally appeared for dress occasions instead of practical occasions like travel or work. Furthermore, the standard fashion trend demanded rich hues for evening and bright hues for daylight, even for capes and coats. For ordinary occasions, black appeared most frequently, especially in Italy and France. Brown and blue also acted as relatively common colors, particularly in England.
Cape Types
In Spain, four common cape types existed. The "capa," a circular cloak, had a hood and extended down anywhere from the knee to the ground. The "ferreruelo," similar to the capa, had a high collar and no hood. The "boemio," a semicircular cape, existed for formal occasions, and the "fieltro," a mid-length cape with a buttoned collar and hood, existed for riding. The semicircular models also eventually became fashionable in England around the Tudor period. Additionally, across Europe, the Renaissance man also could possess a rail, a short, hooded cape made of linen and worn with a nightgown.
Coat Types
Throughout Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries, most men wore a doublet, a coat similar in appearance to a sports jacket or suit jacket. In Italy, this jacket stopped at the waist, but outside of Italy, it grew in length down to the mid-thigh or knee. In England, particularly around the late 1500s, men wore a doublet with a high neck, padded long sleeves and elaborate decoration. In France, the doublet typically had a low neckline and puffed sleeves. Other than the doublet, the Renaissance man also wore a cassock, a masculine coat that fell to the knee or thigh and had loose, wide sleeves. The cassock fell out of fashion around the late 16th century, and most men only wore them during travel. Men wore a mandilion, a loose-fitting, short coat, by hanging one sleeve over the chest and the other down the back. The jerkin, usually worn over the doublet, had a similar appearance to the doublet and could either have sleeves or no sleeves.
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